It goes by Fusco, it’s unapologetically elegant, and it’s open at this very moment in Gramercy.
The spot was named after Conant’s grandmother, which we share because of its inherent preciousness
and…yeah, just that. The space itself is on the smaller side and has a formal,
dark-leather-and-white-tablecloth vibe—studded with crystal chandeliers, tufted banquettes and tufted
walls because hey, maybe the banquettes didn’t sufficiently hit the tuft quota. But seriously, it’s
attractive.
It’s the type of restaurant you might book for some sort of forthcoming family holiday-related outing (hint,
nudge, suggestive eyebrow raise) and take over one of the corner booths. Order a Negroni Spezzato (gin, dry
vermouth, rinomato, lemon, honey) for yourself, maybe a Enzo for pops (grappa, rye whiskey, thyme). Be the
one who orders stromboli for the table. From there, you can get five courses family-style, try the
seven-course tasting menu, or just start asking for things like truffled pea Caesar salads, lamb ragu-turnip
garganelli and hazelnut tart souffle as you feel the need. Menu’s got more on all of that.
