Power Play

Power Play

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Got a game changer for you today.

It combines basements, Wrigley Field, hotel bars and really messy poultry…

… seamlessly.

It’s called The Elm, and it’s beautiful: a big-deal subterranean dinner spot from the chef of Corton. It’s opening Friday at the King & Grove Williamsburg, and here’re the facts.

It’s a grown-up spot.

Think foie gras with spiced-plum gelée, bib-mandatory chicken Kiev and tender lamb neck arranged like minimalist art on white porcelain canvases (you know, dishes). All dreamed up by Paul Liebrandt, a two-Michelin-starred chef.

It wouldn’t seem out of place in LA.

In a good way. It’s a space with space. Towering ceilings and panoramic windows and walls of ivy. There’s even a body of saltwater right outside. Sure, it’s a pool, but… count it.

The amorous dinner phenomenon is alive and well here.

Grab one of the two-tops in that wooded nook beneath the ivy wall. Reread those last dozen words in your head, and try not to fall for whoever’s across from you.

But you’re free to just imbibe.

The tile-and-wood bar just looks like a perfect hotel bar. Its specialty: herb-and-veggie-driven cocktails. Between that and the persistent buzz of the open kitchen, you may be feeling the early tremors of the Williamsburg power-dining movement.

Gulp.

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