You remember the old fable about the hunger that could only be sated by pulsing house beats and Chinese
mahogany chicken. It’s in one of those fable books. It’s also come to life at Toy, a
multi-sectioned, only-in-Meatpacking fantasyland of Sino-Japanese edibles and reflective surfaces at the
Gansevoort Meatpacking, opening next Monday. Get ready to luxuriate in…
… the alfresco experience, sans all the public exposure. Head toward the amply
shrubbed outdoor terrace. It’s got all the rainbow-chopsticked, shiitake-topped glory of the inside
restaurant, plus a delightful abundance of sunlight and a tall, sound-muffling, tinted-glass buffer between
you and the rest of the world.
… dumplings with a side of light show. This is from the brothers Koch—the same
enterprising sparkler-peddlers behind Day & Night. Which means an elevated DJ booth tucked inside a massive
angular mirror wall will mark your entrance into an evening of lobster dumplings and long-bone short
ribs.
… a table for 14. Don’t bring a date. At least not a promising one. Bring a group
that’ll decorate the deceptively wooded dining room nicely before you all head to even dancier
pastures.
… the absurdity. Look, there’s a massive silk screen of an Asian woman with a face
tattoo hanging over the place. Don’t fight this. Just laugh it off, find someone else who’s laughing it
off and buy them a drink.
