Stand under a window and scream your lungs out Brando-style for Estela, a humble passage of
shared-plate temptation and profound wine-drinking, now open in Nolita.
Botanica: a semi-divey gem. This place: right above it. Likely because Botanica’s owner is one of the
gents running it. Along with a former Isa chef doing calamari a la plancha and a former Blue Hill at Stone
Barns beverage director directing you toward grower champagnes and delightfully obscure beers. Sort of
stacking the deck there, but you won’t hold that against them.
Scenario 1: you arrive early and experience the gin-and-absinthe-y joy of a fine Tuxedo #2 at the marble
bar. Scenario 2: you don’t, and you’re led straight to one of the
wooded two-tops lined up beneath a row of incandescent orbs.