Giant Sides of Beef and the Thickest Bacon

Giant Sides of Beef and the Thickest Bacon

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Steak. They can take our—well, it looks like they can take our freedom, actually. But they can never take our steak.

And in that spirit, here’s Royal 35 Steakhouse, a Midtown steakhouse and seafood place in the very strict mold of such things, brought to you by a former Top Chef contestant who’s also served time with Jean-Georges and David Burke. It opens Wednesday on East 35th.

Big rooms of dry-aged beef. Seafood towers that are less towers than landscapes full of oysters, shrimp and lobster that all look like they were alive very recently. More proof that bacon is on its way back to ubiquity, maybe in a classier way this time around (let’s get a menu). All of these you’ll encounter here as you gaze with a cadre of business associates at the sweeping view of wall-mounted fireplaces, supple tufted-leather banquettes and Victorian wallpaper we can’t remember the name of.

So we suggest donning your best suit and tie, coming with a raging hunger for four-person porterhouses and lobster tails, and passing around the creamed spinach. Let the martinis flow and know that we’ll be disappointed if you don’t leave room for chocolate mousse cake (you can see all of that and the above right here).

In sum: classic steakhouse.

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