If you’re going to bring a new culinary director on board, make it a Beard-winning third-generation pastry chef with years working with Daniel Boulud and time at Le Bilboquet under his belt.
At least, that’s the advice apparently followed by the latest outpost of KarVér Brasserie, a cavernous home for all things indulgent and French, now open in Downtown Brooklyn. The team behind KarVér has put a lot into this revamp, and bringing François Payard on board is a long stride in the right direction.
The brasserie is a sleek and spacious spot for classic French food, a dizzying dining room flush with gold and black patterns, textures and fabrics. In the open kitchen, dishes like caramelized onion tarts and escargots à la Bourguignonne are coming together, French dishes crafted with European technique from local New York ingredients. They’ve got this local-meets-European thing going on, which results in many a nice-looking and tasting dish.
Utility-wise, it’s a solid brunch option, if in the area (note the croissant Benedict), but you can come by for fresh bread (Like, really fresh. Their oven is churning out fresh bread every ten minutes) and/or moules-frites and spiked cider drinks whenever you need one or the other, really.