Giant Fish and Many Friends in Kips Bay

Giant Fish and Many Friends in Kips Bay

Average Reviews


It’s Friday. You’re trying to sneak out for a lunch cocktail or two, so let’s just get to Covina, the large, colorful place where you’ll be enjoying a friendly group dinner tonight and for the foreseeable future. It’s open now at the Park South Hotel. The team from O Ya, the omakase spot also in the hotel, is responsible for this. And here, they’re pioneering the field of industrial-old-world-damask design, meaning a zinc bar protecting a huge wood-burning oven in a spacious dining room lined with Technicolor botanical banquettes. Your mission: bring more than one person. It’s going to be like one of those scenes from a chain-restaurant commercial where they film over a table covered in plates of fish and myriad appetizers and pizza, then cutting to jovial folks laughing hysterically at seemingly nothing together and passing everything around. Only here, the fish is going to be whole sea bass with celeriac root puree and salsa verde, and the pizza is going to be wood-fired and topped with robiolo cheese, béchamel, white truffle oil, mushrooms and chives. The drinks are going to include green-apple-Jolly-Rancher-infused rhum agricole cocktails. And the laughter will be the product of sincerely witty repartee. So…actually good. Soon, that colorful front area will be an all-day café for pastries and whatnot, and the same people will be doing the menu on the rooftop as well. We know how much you hate rooftops, though.


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