Howlin’ Ray’s Parks It in Chinatown

Howlin’ Ray’s Parks It in Chinatown

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Nashville hot chicken in a Chinatown mini-mall.

Hard to get more LA than that.

Unless the chicken has a screenplay or something.

Regardless, you get your fix at Howlin’ Ray’s from now on. It’s the first stationary location of LA’s only Nashville-inspired hot chicken truck, and it’s soft-opening Thursday in Chinatown. The slideshow’s here and the menu’s here.

You’ll find said chicken inside of this thin sliver of a classic diner with a formica countertop and raw-lumber tables under a corrugated roof and portraits of Gram Parsons in a white suit. But enough about Gram Parsons’s white suit.

You’re here for fried Mary’s chicken from a veteran of Nobu’s and Keller’s kitchens. Order it in forms ranging from wings to sandwiches to half and whole birds. Heatless is an option. But you’ll more likely go for hot. Or extra hot. Or the scorpion-and-ghost-pepper-spiced “Howlin’,” if you think you might enjoy flirting with your mortality over dinner.

Get that with spicy crinkle-cut fries or collard greens. Maybe a lemonade for moral support. And when you visit on weekends, go for the fried chicken and waffles.

Chicken and waffles. That might just catch on.


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