In the words of LL Cool J in his seminal 1991 work, “Mama Said Knock You Out,” “Don’t call it a
But he’s currently starring in NCIS: Los Angeles, so with all due respect to Mr. Cool J:
Call it Jams, the return of the first farm-to-table restaurant ever in New York. It’s a big deal
and it’s opening tonight at 1 Hotel Central Park.
Before that term “farm-to-table” became but a meaningless groan of vaguely restaurant-related syllables,
Jonathan Waxman (you now know him from Barbuto) was doing it. Decades ago. He was doing it well at a place
called Jams. A place where Andy Warhol had a standing reservation.
After more than 25 years, that place is back, with a lot of new stuff (spicy duck) and some old (red-pepper pancakes with caviar).