Many Happy Returns

Many Happy Returns

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In the words of LL Cool J in his seminal 1991 work, “Mama Said Knock You Out,” “Don’t call it a comeback.” But he’s currently starring in NCIS: Los Angeles, so with all due respect to Mr. Cool J: Call it Jams, the return of the first farm-to-table restaurant ever in New York. It’s a big deal and it’s opening tonight at 1 Hotel Central Park. Before that term “farm-to-table” became but a meaningless groan of vaguely restaurant-related syllables, Jonathan Waxman (you now know him from Barbuto) was doing it. Decades ago. He was doing it well at a place called Jams. A place where Andy Warhol had a standing reservation. After more than 25 years, that place is back, with a lot of new stuff (spicy duck) and some old (red-pepper pancakes with caviar). Let’s do it justice in the form of the slideshow you’d do well to look at.

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