What Pretty Plates You Have, Wolf

What Pretty Plates You Have, Wolf

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What a world we’re living in. Starbucks is invading Italy. Ghostbusters is in CGI. “Fish caramel” exists. Bark at the moon for Wolf, a new place where mingling transpires between shrimp and pork and you and dates and mezcal and other things, now open on Melrose. Here’s the menu and here’s what it looks like. Open the two giant King Kong doors to enter a glowing room resembling a mini California mission. White walls below an apple-cider-vinegar-stained ceiling. Hoop chandeliers. A blue-tiled bar under a wavy, Dalí-ish mirror. There are three ways to proceed from there… For refreshment. Grab two barside seats. Summon a round of orange-oil-laced Negronis. Or a Cynar-raspberry shandy. Or some mezcal with beet and scotch bitters. In conclusion: options. For enchantment. There’s candlelight at each table illuminating your plates of shrimp-and-pork-belly dumplings, fish caramel brussels sprouts and vadouvan lamb. There’s also a great table for eight peering into Marcel Vigneron’s kitchen. For sightseeing. There’s a small sofa on the wee Melrose patio out front. Do dinner there. Or just conclude it over a little Chartreuse. You’ll find that in soufflé form here. Or in a glass. Kind of feels like we’ve come full circle.

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